As a buzzword, "sustainability" dominated September's fashion weeks. From using recycled fabrics to declaring their runways carbon neutral, designers and brands reflected a growing demand among consumers for more than fashion.
According to the latest Pulse of the Fashion Industry study, over a third of those surveyed reported "actively switching from their preferred brand to another" because the latter displayed superior environmental and social values.
But to some experts, the fashion industry's current efforts amount to little more than lip service. The pursuit of sustainability is a vast, hazy, yet ever more urgent task -- one that many say will require radical and transformative measures. Is fashion truly becoming more sustainable? Or is the concept just another trend?

Another emerging trend was "carbon neutral" runway shows, beginning with Gabriela Hearst's at New York Fashion Week and followed by Burberry in London and Gucci in Milan. What's more, Gucci's parent group, Kering, which also owns Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta, among others, used fashion month to announce that the entire company "will become carbon neutral within its own operations and across the entire supply chain."

In short, to be considered genuinely sustainable, brands may need to entirely transform every aspect of their businesses. To that end, the leadership forum Global Fashion Agenda sets out eight "crucial sustainability priorities," including complete transparency throughout the supply chain, safeguarding workers' rights, becoming more energy efficient and reusing textiles. Cherry-picking one or two issues, the forum stresses, will not suffice.

Cutting down on single-use plastic, for instance, does little for the 90% of garment workers worldwide who have no negotiating power over their working conditions or wages, as the global trade union IndustriALL found. And an emphasis on organic cotton over synthetic fabrics does not address the water stress placed on cotton-producing regions in countries like India and China, as flagged by a 2019 report by the British parliament's Environmental Audit Committee.